This boot is different from the others that I have on this blog. I was looking for a dress boot, a boot not to be inspired by the work boots of old. As usual, I looked for a footwear with the construction of goodyear welted (“palmilhada”), I wanted something dark, with soles bonded, and lined in leather for longevity and comfort. Better if it was a manufacturer with traditional catering service.
The boot I chose was an Alden WTB leather Cordovan number 8, is made on the Barrie last (the name of this casual form), with nine eyelets matching agatine”, sole command, sole, brogue in front, to the side, and behind. The price was special and I was in the right place at the right time to ensure. They come individually packaged, with a second pair of laces and two bags for the trip.
The Alden Shoe Company was founded in 1884 by Charles H. Alden in Middleborough Massachusetts. Alden specializes in the production of men’s shoes hand made. The american brand has a large variety of shoes, of the type oxfords, derbys, loafers, chukkas, and boots. Among the most popular are the Longwings (a type of wingtip brogue), the Tassel loafer (they were the ones who invented these loafers with pendurucalhos) and of course, the famous Indy Boot, which calçou Indiana Jones.
Alden is one of the few plants that restore the almost extinct footwear industry in New England. Is a family factory very traditional, with about a hundred employees, and many in the third generation. It is also very much admired because of the shoes made with leather shell cordovan, where they apply a finishing process that produces a spectacular glow.
My first impression was that the Cordovan really is a leather different. Shell Cordovan is the skin of the back of the horse, and has this name because it gave a city in Spain. A horse produces two “shells”, which are enough for a pair of shoes. Raise the animal to slaughter is against the law, so the leather is not common. There is no domestic producer, and in the United States, only the Horween factory.
The cordovan is very dense and flexible, for this little mark, and in a different way. It has a strong smell, a faint glimmer, and it seems that can withstand a nuclear explosion. However, I have the mania to find that the leather shiny look cheap, so I can hardly wait for him to lose this guy again and begin to show the signs of ageing characteristic of this type of skin.
It is not uncommon for shoes cordovan present irregularities in the coloring of the leather, but I have been very fortunate. I picked up a perfect piece. The most common color of shell cordovan are the black and this, which is called the “Color 8” (a shade of the wine-dark). Therefore, the color wine leather shoes normal is also often called cordovan, but should not be mistaken for leather, that comes with the word shell. Recently, the Wall Street Journal published an article about a period of escasses global material.
Alden has three other colors more exotic; a dark brown called “Cigar“, a caramel called “Whisky” and a brown intermediate, which they call “Ravello“ in addition to other less common such as blue, natural, and “Color 4”, a reddish brown. The lighter the color the more rare it is, because the skin needs to be in perfect conditions, because the dyeing, of course reveal any imperfection.
The boot has excellent build. It is made with a goodyear welt and the count of stitches per cm is the highest among all the shoes that I have. The interior is completely lined in leather atanado (tanning vegetable), very soft and comfortable. Only the tongue is not lined, and reveals the other side of the cordovan. To realize the intensity of the staining, which makes up the inside reddish. This makes me believe that in the future the leather should lighten, and reveal several different shades. The boot is extremely comfortable. Probably because of the small cushioning in the heel and also by the quality of the cork that they should have used.
The outsole is tratorada. They call it command sole. Is a cleat triple with two layers of leather, and a third of rubber, glued and stitched, with teeth is not very protruding, so as to not make it jump out like in a boot hiking. The main advantage of a sole so it is that you do not fall of your head on the floor if you step on wet surfaces. I like leather soles, but are not practical if you walk a lot. Each has its place, and for the sidewalks, I like something heavier.
The finish is excellent, the construction is first-line, the price was special, and the comfort surprised me. Giorgio Armani said that Americans make the best shoes, casual shoes, and I agree. If the Europeans take advantage in the shoes classic and elegant shoes, Alden comes out winning with its boots and casual shoes.
One of the biggest problems with Alden are the forms of footwear. The sizes are very varied, and it is complicated to discover the right number. Some are tight and others wide, and they offer numbering, varied in length and in width. When I went to a city with the store of Alden, I tried it, and I memorized my number on some models, and so I didn’t have to risk it.
This boot is made on the Barrie Last. It is a completely american, more heavy and less elegant. I think that is the ideal format for some types of footwear, such as the longwings and derbys. I think that is the ideal format for a boot of this type, which although it’s less rustic than the boots that I am used to, will still be used with jeans and chinos. I like that barrie last, he is rounded in the right measure, is thinner in the middle part, and has a turn excellent at the tip when viewed from the side.Another detail that to me makes a lot of difference estéticament, and in comfort, depending on your foot, is the curvature at the heel.
The Barrie is a great way. We recommend buying a size below normal, or then the middle size but with a size below in width. The shape of the boots overall is greater because they are the original boots for work. Alden uses these forms for a long time, and their catalog is the same in decades. For example, the target audience of the Indy Boot, which is made in the True Balance Last were men who worked the heavy – doing manual work or at least walk all day. These people wore thick socks and padded straps, which compensated for the extra size. Not thought that one day usariamos these boots with thin stockings of cotton. I usually shim to 11.5, and these boots are 10.5 in the Barrie Last.
The details make the difference. The lace-up is boring, waxed cotton, and I noticed the guy that the boot has more eyelets than necessary. Other boots of this height tend to have seven, but she is nine. Aesthetically, I think that this leaves the boot more refined. Another detail is the color of the eyelets. Alden works with three types: blind, agatine, and matching agatine. The blind is only on the inside of the boot, ideal for shoes and boots as well as formal and made in ways more elegant, the agatine is a old gold/brass, better models as well casual and carefree, finally, the matching agatine is painted the same color as the leather, an intermediate option. The disadvantage, because she has no “speed hooks” (those hooks on the barrel), but as the barrel is not high not a problem.
Alden was a name strong in the early days of the renaissance heritage and remains strong, even now that the wave of work/American has lost almost all his strength. I don’t know if you’ll agree, but I think that she came less to Brazil, which now begins to dry up the source of the “workwear”. Perhaps because they do not have a model with a history so rooted in the work as the Redwing, which brings along that aesthetic barbuda, with suspenders, moved in time and space, but eye-catching.The Alden is more discreet, a family factory, proportions and ambitions minors, which continues to produce a huge variety of shoes, but the best are the special models, made in partnership with a few shops around the world.
In my opinion they were the pioneers in the movement of collaborations between shops, brands, and manufacturers of shoes. The idea of taking a standard model, choosing materials and details, and have a product made exclusively for your store is an incredible way of a point of sale show your creativity, prestige, and offer to customers a single product. The traditional models have gained the names and stories of special, connected to the creators and to the details.
One of the first was the Seven Hills Indy Boot for Need Supply. It was not only a Indy, it was a boot made by the creative director of the store, with details well thought out linking the product to a time and a place (Chicago), but sold at the regular price. A Alden of Need Supply has a face, the Alden from Frans Boone has another, and has the Alden of The Bureau Belfast, with its face the Irish. Many brands followed behind, as the Carmina, Viberg, and even the Redwing, which today follow models similar with more or less intensity.
For Sale: Alden Ravello Wingtip Boots customized with a …
Alden Color #8 Grant Wingtip Boots – Alden of San Diego
17 Best images about Alden shoes on Pinterest
SOLD: Alden Whiskey Shell Cordovan Wingtip Boot – 10E …
Special Shell Cordovan – Alden of San Diego
The Color #4 Wingtip Boot – Alden of San Diego
SOLD: Alden x Leffot Snuff Suede WT Boots – 10D – Alden of …
For Sale: Alden Ravello Wingtip Boots customized with a …
FS: BRAND NEW Crockett Jones Lindrick Boot Brown Shell …
Models and Shoes on Pinterest
Walking slowly thru the woods, mud and streams in good …
Daily Download – Alden of San Diego
Perforated Straight Tip Boot
The Best of B&S – Someone should buy this!
The World’s Best Photos of color8
Cordovan by Cap’n
Cornell-P3 High Top Wingtip Sneaker Boot
Wingtip Boot – Shell Cordovan – Dress Shoes
Alden Color8 Shell Cordovan Tanker Boot by leatherhealer …
1000+ images about Shell Cordovan Shoes on Pinterest …